warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 13, 2014 13:18:13 GMT -5
I posted this Q on ekartingnews but thought I'd ask the experts...
Got my WF motor. I have my old ~2000 Top Kart 30mm, 40mm axle chassis which is modified to take the clone and #35 chain. I also have Scotts GP7 front-braked, 32mm, 50mm axle chassis. I tried and it has clearance for the smaller (under 60T) sprockets inboard. I am not sure which one will give me a better handling kart with the WF. I suspect the old Top Kart. I can get the front wheels much narrower (it has 3-stud hub conversions on it) and has the seat stays already bent out of the way for a 4-stroke motor. Just seems so old and beat up!
I also spotted an ad for a 2008 Birel that could come with another WF or TaG motor for an OK-ish price. It's about 3hrs away though...
I wonder if I got the sniper adjustments for my Top Kart (if they fit?!) it would be as good as it needs to be (given my driving skill level...)
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 13, 2014 18:46:57 GMT -5
Running the NFRA 390# WF Class, thinking the 32mm might be too rigid. Since all chassis are built different, much would have to do w/ adjustability, flex, and driving style. Even positioning of the rear cross-bar has much to do w/ tuneability. We tested the same thing recently, but chassis vary so much, very little would translate back to the GP kart. Personally, it comes down to chassis knowledge, as it pertains to your ability to favorably tune for each track. The simplest answer is...go with what you know!
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Post by ron90 on Jan 13, 2014 20:55:30 GMT -5
Dan, Dan, Dan: I read your post and my head started to spin.  Many of the words and concepts are completely foreign to me. Can you explain the following: adjustability flex driving style rear cross-bar tuneability tested favorably tune If you explain those to me it may make me a better driver. Last question: Does cleaning the kart help on race day?  |
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 14, 2014 0:06:40 GMT -5
Ron, I'd need to make eye contact before attempting, or you can just read your setup notes from last season? That could only happen AFTER we reach a conclusion if your wrecked sloppy-jalopy sitting in the garage is even worth committing to a racing season!
Love ya brother, looking forward to seeing you guys in Redding
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Post by ron90 on Jan 14, 2014 2:06:18 GMT -5
Knew phrase I do not quite understand:
Setup Notes from last season.
See I keep everything in my head. And with that hard impact I think some of it splashed out.
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 14, 2014 22:31:51 GMT -5
Alrighty. Committing to the old Top Kart. I ordered a single pair of sniper adjusters and some 90mm M8 kingpins (to replace the old bolts and lock-wire nuts. It is a nice freed-up chassis being so used 'n' all. I am hoping that the unsealed axle bearings did not get too contaminated from running the dirt oval at P.C. Reminds me, I must go back there soon!
Still trying to sell the GP7 to pay for some of this...
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 2, 2014 15:54:57 GMT -5
On the Intrepid chassis I am going to use the 5 deg mount. There's no gain to be had with the 15deg. The thing is with the 5deg is that it only uses two bolts to hold the two pieces together (it ships with three but there's no pattern you can use for all three!). Putting it on it's widest I actually can get past the stock seat strut even with the clutch outboard although I do see the benefits to doing inboard (force wise - but mainly keeping the gunk off me and the seat!. Anyways just wanted to get your opinion on using the WF at this widest on this mount. I could drill another hole for another bolt... Attachments:
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Post by Dan Pell on Feb 2, 2014 17:43:02 GMT -5
First, you purchased a strong mount, so that's a good thing. Because of low-end torque, all mounts will flex, some more than others, allowing the block to twist in the process. If you think another bolt would help to secure it, I'd do it. I ran a test late last year with dial indicators indexed to a motor on the dyno, amazing the distortion discovered. Earlier this week, we tested a motor in a hydraulic press to measure block-flex (5 tons of pressure was the target on the crank) both vertically & horizontally, interesting what was found. This test was done because Simon has run across the occasional twisted block. Lastly....anyone wanna buy a slightly used (the tested block in the press) motor, minus head & flywheel?  Oh yea- Zero warranty! |
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 3, 2014 17:18:55 GMT -5
Checked with Burris - they said two is all that is needed for the 5deg so that's good. They ship three as bolt bag is same across all mounts.
So just weighing some things before I bolt them on the new chassis. Might be useful to someone reading.
47lbs - engine complete (clutch, exhaust header, carb, filter, 16oz oil), Faster Motors modified chain guard, 5deg Burris mount
5lbs 4oz starter and bracket
Since I don't think I'll make the endurance race where I would've been shooting for #365 I can go ahead with the #390 weight. Starter may as well go back on if I can change the bend in the bracket to fit past the chainguard. I'll try and do a bathroom scaling of the kart once I get the seat on there and then I can figure out what other weight I need, what size battery I can get etc.
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 3, 2014 19:50:33 GMT -5
Talked with Fastech about a starter battery (need some weight) but he thought their cheap ones might not be up to it and though I would need the Rotax approved one which is more expensive. Anyone have opinions on what size would be good? I need AGM so I can use my battery tender and get some #s added. It seems like maybe a YB5 would do otherwise a YB7. Not sure if the cheaper brand stuff pays off or not.
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Post by Dan Pell on Feb 3, 2014 23:38:20 GMT -5
You are lucky, get to put weight where it best suits the need. As for the battery, Robby probably sees more of the returns than John, so I'd trust his opinion.
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 4, 2014 11:47:12 GMT -5
I'm scratching the starter idea. Need to do even more fabrication around that chain guard and redo the starter bracket. I'm thinking 15lb of lead put wherever I want is going to be easier - oh and remembering to pull start the right way - not all excited like.
One thing I did notice when I took my clutch off is that the key had recessed right into the clutch so was not really engaged, The keyway inside the clutch gets deeper it seems. I need a new key basically. I'll see if Alco Iron and Metal has 3/16 keyway stock bars to cut a new one from I suppose. It had not rotated on the shaft though so maybe it was just slightly engaged.
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Post by Dan Pell on Feb 4, 2014 13:31:57 GMT -5
Good idea on the lead. As for the key:
Flat stock @ .630 wide, .750 long,. and .185 thick. I make my own, try to keep them fresh after 2-3 races.
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 4, 2014 14:40:27 GMT -5
Great! Thanks Dan!
I was just told by Eric at Seventh Gear that the instructions for the clutches are backwards. Says it ships ready for outbound - which is incorrect. No wonder I had a lot of judder on slow corners. I flipped it and now its waiting for a key. I'll check my metal store today!
Everyone stick with the orange springs? I am getting some yellows but hoping that now it's on the right way it'll be fine. Eric said they know their printed instructions have been wrong for years...
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Post by Brad Wunder on Feb 4, 2014 23:39:47 GMT -5
Really? Every clutch I've gotten WAS setup for outboard. ?? RE the key, might be a hard item to find in a local metal store. I think most of us either order them or pick them up from Terry or Dan.
Yeah everyone runs the oranges. Not sure how the yellows will work for you but I'm interested to hear. I DO know that after you swap out those springs you will be able to swear like a sailor!
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Many of the words and concepts are completely foreign to me. Can you explain the following:
Oh yea- Zero warranty!
