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Post by ron90 on Jan 20, 2014 22:04:17 GMT -5
I use the chain guard with outboard. It covers all the way to the nut. I wonder if the one they sent you is a narrow one (if there are even two sizes)?
What is the width of the guard part. Mine is 2 3/4 inches.
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 20, 2014 23:39:33 GMT -5
Not a big deal, plan "B" invoked! You can use a 1" wide piece of plastic from a number plate, about 4"-6" long, and that's acceptable. Zip ties are the easiest. Most do run outboard clutch placement in the 390 class, and almost all have fabricated something to make it work. I say plastic instead of steel so that a sharp edge does not leave a lasting mark when working with the chain.
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 20, 2014 23:57:31 GMT -5
Mine is only 2" wide. There was only one "plus" form Faster Motors. Oh well.
So when you say use a piece just 6" long does that mean I just need to cover a direct upwards launch of the chain?
Wow digging though my box o' crap I found a strip of 40mm chain guard about 23" long. Perfect! I'll wrap a bit of the curve at the front and left it stick out the back a tad for that go faster swept look.
Thanks!!
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 21, 2014 0:56:37 GMT -5
Rules only require a full chain guard when the sprockets are outside the axle supports. Since 4 cycles do not apply, simply cover the clutch, and save time when swapping gears. The rules says "you must not be able to see the clutch as viewed from directly over the top". For safety reasons, a bit longer on the plastic makes sense. That strip of plastic you have is perfect, zip-tie it to the purchased guard after drilling 3-4 very small holes in it, and you're good to go!
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 21, 2014 15:12:36 GMT -5
Well I found a little strip of steel 1" wide the perfect size and since I had to get the welder out to weld the bolt for the cross-brace (see it right next to the lower of the oil filler caps) I figured I'd just weld the guard extension. BTW the brace totally does not fit with the oil filler cap in or out. Using the thickness of the allen screw to space it away it just about fits. Jeez, I hope this is the last modification I have to make to this thing.... Attachments:
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Post by Simon on Jan 21, 2014 21:59:34 GMT -5
Looking good !
Don't forget to drill the filler plugs and drain plugs for safety wire.
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 21, 2014 22:29:51 GMT -5
Oh right!
I was going to break in tonight but I'll spare the neighbours. I was surprised to find oil in the engine already (and now all over my welding table). I don't know if I trust the amount so I'll put my break-in oil in there while I've got the plugs out.
with a 15deg (Burris) mount people still going for 14-16oz? or reducing a touch?
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 21, 2014 23:42:43 GMT -5
New or previously-run motor? If you're not 100% positive on oil, start all over w/ 16 oz, never below 14oz. Adjust the low-speed air bleed (in the center of the float bowl, on the bottom of the carb) for the highest rpm at idle, then vary engine rpm while breaking it in/acclimating it to different oil.
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