warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 13, 2014 13:21:00 GMT -5
I have two clone motors from Arc from about 3 years ago. They came with chain guards. I am wondering if I should just pull one off (which is modified a bit to fit around my seat) and use that for the WF? Is the bolt pattern the same? Is there any legal implications here? Any "everyone uses the ...." guard?
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 13, 2014 17:37:07 GMT -5
I guess I should get the one from Faster Motors or Comet as recommended in the cracked case thread...
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Post by ron90 on Jan 13, 2014 18:21:37 GMT -5
You always have to put the chain guard on near the clutch. The Chain cover from the chain guard back to the bumper is pretty much optional except in some classes. I don't know about the bolt holes from Clone to WF. I should becuase I have both, but I have never compared them.
I have the big guard that goes under the engine, up the side behind the clutch and around the clutch. I think it does eliminate flex. I had to grind away a corner of it because the starter and the guard had some interference. I would have taken off the starter but then I simply would have to put on more lead.
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 14, 2014 13:20:02 GMT -5
Ordered the chain guard from Faster Motors. Prolly take a week to get here. I might just bolt up the Arc Racing one for break-in period. Speaking of, I read conflicting methods on the inter-webs... Some say (like Briggs) two 8min periods of no-load 1700-2000rpm running then change oil - then 15 mins of track time <6000rpm. Change oil to synthetic. Done. Others say first 15 mins should be under load.
I've got some Briggs racing oil coming from Faster Motors but I think I'll get through the break-in before that arrives. Maybe if the first run in is still with non-synthetic I think it'll be OK. I'll change it when it arrives.I also got a jet kit and the jet driver. Hoping I should be set.
Do I need to worry about finding 93 gas or is pump 91 OK?
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Post by ron90 on Jan 14, 2014 13:57:36 GMT -5
I ran MS93 for two seasons primarily because I think it will burn cleaner and i will not have to maintain my carburetor as much. Most will tell you i am lazy when it comes to cleaning. And I have to vehemently agree with them.
There is no appreciable difference with pump gas and race gas. the others can chime in but I think they all use pump gas now. I am not sure of the octane they use.
As for break-in I will have to check the manual at home. I do not do anything that anyone else does so I am confident I do not want to mess up your engine because I do not follow the book.
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 14, 2014 18:13:40 GMT -5
DO BE CAREFUL, SOME OILS DO NOT PLAY WELL W/ OTHERS! I just hung up the phone w/ Briggs & Stratton, chastised them for not recommending a break-in oil to use w/ the 4T AMSOIL makes. So long as you use a PAG or Ester-based oil, should be fine. Most suggest that the break-in is NOT done under a load.
Good luck!
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 14, 2014 18:29:44 GMT -5
I have some Valvoline non-detergent 30w I was going to use then switch to the Briggs or maybe the 20w redline from Fastech (although their pic does not show it as the 4-cycle). Why is everthing so complicated! Thought switching to this engine would be simple.
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 14, 2014 18:37:42 GMT -5
Funny! It is simple, it's just the initial oiling that's so important on any non-pressurized oiling system. It's the same for all 4 cycle racing engines, so just suggesting that all are better safe than sorry.
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Post by ron90 on Jan 14, 2014 18:44:36 GMT -5
It is not as complicated as some make it. I just don't recommend my method online as others might use it and blame me for problems. I am an attorney. email me if you want to skydivingrlc at yahoo.com Dan: When you said DO BE CAREFUL, SOME OILS DO NOT PLAY WELL W/ OTHERS! I had to re-read it because I thought you said Ron does not play well with others!!!!!! I do agree with Dan that break in is NOT under a load. I, however, may be under a load while I break my engine in. Several beers, watching TV, running engine in garage, find out the next morning it ran all night! I'm KIDDING, it did not run ALL night.  |
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Post by ron90 on Jan 14, 2014 18:48:00 GMT -5
It is not as complicated as some make it. I just don't recommend my method online as others might use it and blame me for problems. I am an attorney. email me if you want to skydivingrlc at yahoo.com Dan: When you said DO BE CAREFUL, SOME OILS DO NOT PLAY WELL W/ OTHERS! I had to re-read it because I thought you said Ron does not play well with others!!!!!! I do agree with Dan that break in is NOT under a load. I, however, may be under a load while I break my engine in. Several beers, watching TV, running engine in garage, find out the next morning it ran all night! I'm KIDDING, it did not run ALL night. |
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 14, 2014 21:54:41 GMT -5
I guess I've been used to pressurized 4-cycle racing engines... Or 4-cycle engines that still have the oil pre-mixed like my ol' Aixro that I still miss [lowers head to avoid "It's not a 4-cycle!" debate...] Even my Briggs on my hovercraft was pressurized by this super cute little pump and filter.
OK - I'll stick to the manuals' break in method. Only the "Blueprinted to the hilt" builders out there recommended the under-load break in. Since I only have a 219 driver on my clutch that is about all I can do for the moment. The 14T #35 shows up Thursday and the 14T to follow. Not looking like I'll be done for the enduro race this year. I hope they do others this year.
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warx
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Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 16, 2014 20:42:23 GMT -5
With the Burris mount and the wider clutch I am going to have to move my seat even more to the left. I thought it would similar to the clone. Where is my sledge hammer?!
Going to position it just in front of the rear tire. Think my seat needs to go forward anyways since it was back for dirt.
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Post by Dan Pell on Jan 16, 2014 23:10:29 GMT -5
A thing of beauty! Coming along nicely, as for the muffler support, very similar to a Rotax pipe cradle, w/ a couple springs to secure it. If it can flex a bit (allows the frame not to bind) all the better.
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Jan 20, 2014 18:23:00 GMT -5
Urgh. Waited days for the "Chain Guard Plus" from Faster Motors. Got it today and removed the starter (the bracket that supports it would need to be re-bent to accomodate thickness. I filed pretty much every hole so it lined up. Some were about 3mm off, fitted it and re-installed the engine. When I put the clutch on I realize it does not even cover the sprocket and chain. So time and money wasted. Back to using the Arc one I suppose... I thought others were using this for the extra bracing from the bottom. Unless everyone is running an inboard clutch?! I am pretty sure I can not. The clutch is so wide that the seat is very far to the left already and flipping the clutch inboard puts the chain inline with the frame and third axle bearing.... I suppose I can get a 1" strip of 16 or 18ga steel and curve it to match the guard and weld it on to increase the width. Attachments:
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