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Post by brad42 on Nov 19, 2010 21:28:52 GMT -5
When was this? I saw a broken one like that at the last Gold Rush but can't remember whose it was. The one I saw had broken off inside the header.
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Post by scoots27 on Nov 24, 2010 19:34:29 GMT -5
It was Sunday after the Awards, and thats what happend to Tom's RLV muff. Broken off inside the header. there's a bolt boss on the side of the head (left side) that one could mount a brase to support the Muff. insted of the pipe. I don't know how Tom's was brased.
hay Toro when are u going back to Dixon?
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cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Nov 24, 2010 20:48:20 GMT -5
We also had the one we bought from Luther at the Stktn GR break off in the tube while testing a few weeks back. I feel this is just another untested 'mandate' that is put out by Art V and RLV, just like was done last season with the Yamaha Pipe. Has anybody contacted RLV yet?
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Post by scoots27 on Nov 24, 2010 21:25:22 GMT -5
I'm going to hit mine with the Rose Bud torch to make it alittle softer and install it with hy tenp silicone, not to tite now its gona be brased. Thats my plan on my clone cadet Masters kart.
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Post by brad42 on Nov 29, 2010 9:34:14 GMT -5
Karl and I are involved in a thread on 4cycle.com where it was stated that there are instructions on how to brace it. None of the early production ones that came through Mr. Luther came with instructions. One of us will post it when we get a copy.
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Post by tommy toro on Dec 1, 2010 14:49:31 GMT -5
Karl got hold of RLV and spoke to them on my behalf and shot me there number so I could talk to them, and there aware of the problem and will replace the defective mufflers, I talked to Rob (owners brother) and it appears we were the first to get these prototypes, apparently the tapered pipe thread is the problem and there going to a non tapered design so they will screw all the way in, then brace them from the unused lug on the side of the head as opposed to the way I've been doing it with the piece of flat bar welded to the header flange, makes sence to me, soon as it stops raining on the weekends Scoots, whats up with that!
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Post by norcalacr on Dec 1, 2010 19:15:18 GMT -5
... brace them from the unused lug on the side of the head That's how I supported the B&S muffler on my clone. I had some aluminum flat stock laying around that worked fine. Easier to twist than steel. Not to mention the 5 grams I saved! |
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Post by brad42 on Dec 2, 2010 12:30:45 GMT -5
I'd be careful with using aluminum, been there, done that. It anneals to a soft and weak state with several heat cycles and does not hardly have enough strength left to support it's own weight, let alone a muffler and header. Good ole 1020 rolled steel from Orchard Supply or Lowes is the best bet,with two pipe clamps instead of welding.
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Post by tommy toro on Dec 2, 2010 17:38:21 GMT -5
Hummm.. lets see, I've already bolted 50 lbs of lead to my kart to make weight, I think I'll make my brace out of the heaviest over engineered pieces of industrial steel I can get my hands on. yee haw!!!! and yes I like my welder just fine thank you very much.
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Post by karlznet on Dec 4, 2010 17:59:22 GMT -5
The photos below were sent to me from RLV and show exactly how they recommend bracing the new box stock clone muffler. As Tom already mentioned anyone having problems with their pre-production muffler should contact Rod at RLV. RLV, Inc. 2363 Thompson Way Santa Maria, CA 93455 805-925-5461 Fax: 805-922-3321      Added 1/13/11 - follow up message from Rod at RLV.
"The support bracket needs to be tight to the head with the strap touching the silencer before the hose clamps are installed. If the hose clamps are on first then the bolt tightened the strap can pull down on the assembly and break the header."
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Post by www.web.de on Jun 20, 2021 22:53:19 GMT -5
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