cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Sept 23, 2010 9:39:57 GMT -5
Ok....I will admit that some things are just too simple 4me! However....I am researching info related to the flywheel on the various blogs and I am starting too think that maybe the billet flywheel is "good".....AS A SAFETY ISSUE ONLY investment. I don't like the idea in so far that I feel that it will allow some individuals to take advantage of it and start squeezing the RPM limits 'a-little' more. I WILL say that if "they" decide too allow billet rods.....the BSP is DEAD!!! That being said, my question is, how are you guys locking up the crankshaft in order to torque the flywheel.....am I missing something in the picture? Removal is no big deal if you just shock it with an impact wrench and when I re-installed it after post-tech at Atwater, I again, hit it with the impact "lightly". In my "search", I noted (1) blog indicating the need to torque the flywheel too 54 ft/lbs. Obviously....to (or check) torque, you need to lock-up the crankshaft from rotating. (Note: The engine is mounted on the kart, not on the bench.) I'm not finding a lock-up port in the back/side plate.....what am I missing here?....plz chime-in, but keep it simple.....i'm evidently not to bright....  |
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Post by norcalacr on Sept 23, 2010 9:58:28 GMT -5
You should be able to hold the crank via the retaining bolt on the output shaft (clutch end). Unless you want to impact wrench the clutch retaining bolt off I suggest threading a nut onto the retaining bolt. This will allow you to remove the bolt with two wrenches.
The tormar has a wrench that hold their clutch (and therefore the crank). You could probably make something for your clutch. I made one from some angle iron and two bolts (noram clutch). Very handy when you need to R&R the clutch or check torque of the retaining bolt.
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cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Sept 23, 2010 10:10:39 GMT -5
In regards to the rumored billet flywheels being "allowed" next year (not mandated)....I am going to stick my neck out
and 'suggest' that if (from a Safety standpoint only) anybody that chooses too (lets just say) alter or, maximize valve spring pressures AND utilize other than 'stock' head gasket, MUST have a billet flywheel! This IS NOT a difficult TECH issue either! For those that just got they're panties wadded up by reading this, there is no intent toward 'cheating' intended! 2+2 'does'=4
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cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Sept 23, 2010 10:36:59 GMT -5
ok....thanks for the input....now I know 'it's not just me! I'd think that by using the clutch retaining bolt too counter the rotation when torquing the flywheel, we've just created a 'vicious circle' so-to-speak.....and, being 'Made in China'....i'm concerned about 54 ft/lbs of torque on that bolt and crank thread as well. What I precieve is something that can be quickly and on the kart. Yes, the wrench idea (Tomar) works very well but the concept is totally different......this gives me something too think/do 2day.....thx
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Post by karlznet on Sept 23, 2010 15:45:02 GMT -5
You are correct about counter torque on the crank. The only proper way to back up the flywheel when torquing it is to hold it with a strap wrench. ~Karl
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Post by karlznet on Sept 23, 2010 16:03:23 GMT -5
I believe the original statement was in regards to the IKF clone rule where the poster was stating that it will be in the IKF rule book next year for 2011. The optional use of ARC's billet flywheels (fixed or adjustable timing) is already in the IKF clone rules that were approved this year and are already in place. It's one of the main reasons that we don't recognized IKF clone rules here in Nor-Cal and instead follow AKRA's Box Stock Clone rules, with a few minor local option changes. I have not heard anything yet about AKRA allowing the billet flywheels for next year but it’s certainly possible. I should have asked Bill or Tom when I was checking on the date that the new RLV muffler would be legal. Guess we'll know more next week when the AKRA rule changes are posted.
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cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Sept 23, 2010 21:25:33 GMT -5
Karl....thanks for the billet flywhl rules clarification. Being new to the Clones, we're still learning the lay of the land and who we have too beat...ha ha (Rich)! Also, on the torque issue.....I'm assuming that your attempting to hold the flywheel, itself....with the strap wrench....right? I havn't tried that yet, but it seems 2me that routine could be a challenge! I certainly won't challenge your method if you've done it! Also....whats your take on the 54lbs....do you think that's a bit of an 'over-kill ', so-2-speak?? I'm goin2 see what my impact took mine too when I put it on! Thx again...
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Post by karlznet on Sept 24, 2010 14:29:03 GMT -5
Holding the strap wrench on the flywheel with your left hand and the torque wrench in you right hand to tighten feels very natural - piece of cake. You'll see the first time you do it, as long as you have a decent size and quality strap wrench. The 54 lbs is not an over kill at all. Be very careful not to go much over that if you use an impact or you risk driving the wheel on to the taper far enough to start cracking it. Of the documented cases of clone flywheel problems just about every one can be attributed to operator area in some way, eg; dropping or hammering on the flywheel, over or under torquing it on the tapered shaft or the coil hitting the magnet, either from setting the gap too close or the coil bolts coming loose. ~Karl
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