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Post by Simon on Feb 15, 2011 1:03:13 GMT -5
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 15, 2011 8:56:38 GMT -5
OK - quickly on the tilted thing; Mine are stored @ 50deg but now I am seriously considering either draining the oil each time or storing flat. Been reading about it and most people have problems as you'd expect. I guess I have been lucky with fresh engines.
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cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Feb 15, 2011 10:47:58 GMT -5
.........here's some pics of my mod to an Italian chassis:
In looking at your photo's.....it doesn't appear that you had the chassis supported before you cut your bar out......you 'did' support it.....right?
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Post by norcalacr on Feb 15, 2011 10:52:58 GMT -5
Draining the oil each time is recommended for the reasons stated. However I don't know of any reason why having fresh oil in the engine would be detrimental. I know running an engine dry is a killer so I alway have oil in the engine. At the end of the day, while the oil is hot, I'll drain the old and refill with fresh.
As far as storing the kart on angle, at some point the engine is tilted enough so that the oil flows though the passages into the rocker area. Then you've got yourself a mess because the rocker cover isn't designed to contain a reservoir of oil.
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Post by Brad Wunder on Feb 15, 2011 13:39:42 GMT -5
First off Kevin, welcome to our little group of rototiller racers! ;D I see that the guys and gals are taking good care of you so far. The clone class is a great place to get into karting. I'm envious of you being able to race while you are still in school. Back when I was in school it was Mac & cheese for me and had I not been playing racquetball for a beer a point I wouldn't have had anything to drink. But anyway....enough of ancient history. LOL
Find yourself a used chassis (something $500 or less), slap a clone on there and let's go racing!
You won't find a better group of guys and gals than what you will find in the NFRA. We are all about helping each other out and racing for the fun of it.
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Post by tommy toro on Feb 15, 2011 16:01:34 GMT -5
Well I went to Dixons first club race last weekend just to pay my club dues and make an appearance, dident race, but Jessie wanted to know if I brought bumpers for sale, so I guess the metal ones are fine, I just got caught up making my own and the ones I've already taken orders for, but I plan on showing up at the Outlaw race at Dixon this weekend with at least 10 or 12 in the most common sizes, although I can make them any size you want, and in the infamous words of Henry Ford you can have any color you want as long as its black. bring your $50 bucks,
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warx
Full Member
Posts: 197
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Post by warx on Feb 15, 2011 19:54:36 GMT -5
I cut it with a fine hacksaw blade and observed it did not open or close the cut at all (no movement). I determined that it was supported in a way that the new cross member would weld back in place correctly (assuming minimal weld contraction as it was TIGed. It was the best I could do. Seems fine. Fourth wheel touches ground when I sit in seat (kidding...)
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cazman
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by cazman on Feb 15, 2011 21:06:41 GMT -5
.......Fourth wheel touches ground when I sit in seat (kidding...)
Ok then.....so long as when we are following you and we can't read the numbers on ur side pod.....ur good to go!
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Post by kevink16 on Feb 16, 2011 18:41:01 GMT -5
Alright, one more question about how you guys run the season. I noticed that the races on the NFRA season schedule coincide with the club races at whatever track is scheduled. So do you guys just go race in the club race and also keep your own NFRA points on the side of the club points? Also do most clone racers travel to follow the NFRA schedule or do many just stay and race at one club? For example, if I go to a PC club race the same day there is an NFRA race in say Dixon, would anybody be at the PC race to make a field or would most guys just go to Dixon? I guess my main question is would I be better off racing in only one clubs' series or just racing in the NFRA races at the tracks close to me?
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Post by brad42 on Feb 16, 2011 21:14:22 GMT -5
Several good questions posted there Kevin. I'll try to address them all in random order:
The clubs we race at pretty much work together to avoid schedule conflicts. So if we are racing a club race at Dixon, by defaiult the other tracks do not have a race that day because they worked it all out at the scheduling meeting back in November.
Some travel with us, some are sticking to their home club races. It is up to your own schedule and budget. In your first year racing it is certainly easier to race the same track 6 or 8 race weekends than following us all over the place for a dozen races, but racing the same track over and over and over can get old. We want to race with everyone all the time but realize that we can't, so if we just race with you twice (we do most tracks twice per season) then we can live with that.
Points for the NFRA series are indeed kept "on the side" by our own club secretary. We use them to have our own banquet at the end of the year, and post them here on the website. If you belong to one of the clubs we race at, you get points for both.
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Post by kevink16 on Feb 25, 2011 22:57:59 GMT -5
Hey guys,
So I've found a potential rolling chassis that I could pick up and put a clone on as well as a few race ready clones. I've been debating over to get one that is turnkey or start with a roller. Mainly I'm trying to figure out which would be cheaper so I've been making a "shopping list" of what I will need to get to finish a roller and how much it will all cost. I just wanted to check and make sure I haven't forgotten anything. Here's what I've got so far:
1. A You-Build-it clone engine kite from either ARC or EC (about $200)
-Also does anyone know if the ARC engine comes with the CL1 cam?
2. A 15 degree motor mount ($65)
3. Exhaust header and muffler($40)
-Just to verify the RLV4117 "mini 91" is the proper muffler right?
4. Clutch ($55)
-What is the most standard clutch tooth number? I'm sure I'll get more drive sprockets as I go but want to make sure I start with one I'll definitely need.
5. #35 chain and a chain breaker (around $30).
Is there anything I am forgetting and do these prices look about right? Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated by rookies like me
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Post by Mac on Feb 26, 2011 2:07:17 GMT -5
Hi Kevin, your list is decent. Some of my thoughts...for what they are worth  The least expensive motor mount is from BMI Karting and is about 41$. EC Birt has a header and muffler for about 32$. The ARC engine kit doesn't list a cam..you should call them as they are really good about answering questions. Yes, the RLV mini 91 is the correct muffler. People generally buy a clutch with a 14-16 tooth driver. A lot depends on you and your chassis. Some people need a smaller driver because of limitations on the frame they are using that only allow a certain gear size on the back. Also which tracks you are racing at most often. Most of us seem to favor the 15 or 16 tooth drivers. The chain is important..get an extra. Chain breaker is good but if other 4 cyclers are around we generally have one to use. You'll also need a tire pressure gauge, it's helpful to have your own air tank (20$ at walmart), various lubes/sprays (WD40, chain lube, etc), assorted tools (the list is endless ;D), gas can, oil and oilpan, zip ties, and about 3 dozen other items...but this would get you started. Hope to see you out there! |
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