What gearing do I start with ?

[Dean]

Hey Paul Thats great, I will take you up on that offer. I am going to PC on Saturday to check it out and hopfully meet a few of the Thumper guys.If you are around town Maybe we can hook up.

Thank You,
Dean
Cell: 209-324-4567

[paulskirocks]

Cool, I hope that seat works for you. I had it for 4 years, so I decided to give it away to PaulV. I didn't think he was a XXL, but who was I to argue with a man's belly!...

[Dean]

Thanks Paul.

[Brad Wunder]

Dean, did you get a chance to hookup with Luis on the roller? Are you looking to use that chassis for your WF?

[Dean]

Brad, I did have him send me some pictures, I have a Arrow chassis that I am using for the world formula, I actually just received the engine today and I am having some clearance issues so I deffinatly need to hook up with you guys for some advise. Is anyone going out to PC on Saturday ?


Dean

[paulskirocks]

Dean,

I won't be down that way until the 24th, but here is my situation...

I have my motor on a shifter chassis. I had to bend the seat struts over about 1/2 inch, and had to bend the right hand strut back about an inch, as well. I even have had that XXL seat that you are getting on this chassis at one time, so I know things can be made to fit...

I run the clutch sprocket inboard and the chain/rear sprocket just clears the third bearing support, by moving the seat over 1/2 inch. The clutch clears the right hand seat strut because I bent it back an inch.

If I wanted to run the clutch sprocket outboard, I would have to offset my motor even more to the right, in order for the chain to clear the right hand seat strut. I don't want my motor hanging off with more offset, and I don't want to cut out my seat strut and use a clamp on type, so I choose to run the clutch sprocket inboard...

Further, the cross bar on the shifter chassis is quite close to the axle, so I can only run up to maybe a 62 tooth rear sprocket. It's no problem, though, as I can get the ratio I want by running smaller clutch sprocket to compensate. As well, having a 15 degree tilted motor mount helps lift the clutch sprocket as high as possible, giving the most clearance possible between the chain and cross bar...

You can join this forum, by the way, and no longer be logged in as a guest. That way, we can send you PMs, as well...

Anyways, if you can't get it together sooner, I can help you work on your kart on the weekend of the 24th... If I didn't live 200 miles north of Prairie city, I'd help a lot sooner!

[Dean]

Paul, You described It too a "T". I did not think about running the clutch inboard but I think if I can do that it will make life a lot easier, the one problem I might have is that I don't have a 15 degree motor mount, It's 5 or 7 degree I'm not sure. the Chassis that I have had a KT 100 on it before so I had to remove the rear axle and reconfigure the sprocket hub and reverse the third bearing. It seems like that all went well now I will have to deal with the XXL seat when I get it. Is your seat center with the sterring wheel or is it offset to the left? Mine is to the left a little. I am not sure what the clearance is like for a sproket yet.What are you running in the front if your running a 62 in the rear ?

[paulskirocks]

I find that I can run all tracks with a 13, 14, or 15 tooth driver, and use from 54 to 62 tooth rear. Most chassis have more clearance than the one I am currently running, so I think you'll be fine. As well, you'll probably be fine with a 5 or 7 degree mount. If you run the clutch gear inboard, you'll have to flip the sprocket carrier so that the rear sprocket can sit right next to the third bearing support. I took my third bearing out completely, but leaving it in might help for bigger drivers. Although I moved my seat to the left by about a half inch, I still aimed the seat to the center of the steering wheel, so that the front of the seat actually moved over less than the back of the seat. Just get the motor mounted first. Then make the seat fit.

[Dean]

Thanks for the great info Paul, I am going to have to take tha rear axle off again and flip the sprocket hub around but thats no problem. I bought the motor from a guy in Calgary Canada, He said that their elevation is 3300ft. and the climate is hot and dry so he said that I may have to change the main jet in the carb. What jet is everyone using around here ?


Dean

[paulskirocks]

Well, I have an Animal motor, and while the gearing is going to be within a tooth or two of a WF, the carbs are different. If you have a Mychron, or something similar, with CHT and EGT sensors, you can tune by the Head and exhaust temp. If you don't have the onboard sensors, I suggest you go with whatever Briggs considers standard from the factory. Remember, increase the jet size to cool it down a bit (less oxygen). Also remember that you will have a rev limiter, so I don't think you will have a temp problem.

[Brad Wunder]

Dean, if a 15 degree mount would help I've got one from Burris I ran on my F200 that would work for you. Unfortunately, I won't be out at the track this weekend. However, I should be around the house for most of Sunday and if you are heading out to PC I'm like 5 minutes away and you can stop by if you'd like.

[Dean]

Brad, Thanks for the offer but right now I think the mount I have is ok. I plan on going out to PC Saturday just to check out whats going on there and hope to go to see Paul V. for a seat if he is going to be around. Thanks again and I will let you know how everything works out. Talking to Paulskirocks it sounds like I have to go inboard with the clutch and make a few adjustments to the seat brackets and I should be fine.

Thank You.

Dean