IKF Rule book - need to know what to safety-wire

[warx]

Does everyone buy a rule book every year? First I thought you had to join IKF but I did see that Empire Karts sells them for $25 +s/h

All I really want to know is how to get my old beater kart through tech. I see a few bolts drilled but not wired but wanted a de-facto set of what needs wiring.

Mike.

[brad42]

Mike -

Don't need no stinkin rule book just some common sense is all.

In general, any nut/bolt that is part of the steering or brake system must be cotter keyed, pinned, or safety wired.

So let's start with the steering. The three nuts/bolts that attach the steering wheel to the hub, the 2 nuts that hold the steering shaft into the chassis, all 4 heim joints on the tie rod ends, the 2 kingpin bolts that hold the spindles on the chassis, and the ends of the spindles.

Brake system: Whatever holds the brake pedal in the chassis, the rod or cable that connects the pedal to master cylinder, the bolts that hold the master cylinder to the chassis, and all bolts that hold the caliper(s) onto the chassis. Some karts have 6 drilled bolts holding the brake disk to it's hub, some have steel on steel locknuts, both are acceptable.

Never use nylock nuts on the brake disk.

That's it!

By the way all of the above have been the same in every rulebook since about 1966 or so. They never change these.

[markofzero]

All added lead weights need to be safety wired too.

[warx]

OK without the book - got some more Qs

1. I have the ARC clone chain/clutch guard. Do I need a plastic guard all the way to the back?

2. The 6 bolts holding disc to carrier (on axle). There's no holes nor room to do these (bolt barely shows through nut (which is nyloc!). How do folks wire them? Castle nuts?

3. Does the rear bumper need wiring to frame? or wire the bolt/nut that holds it on?

4. Need to mount 15lb up front as far as possible. My front cowling is just plastic panel. Can I mount weights to floor pan or with conduit u clips to the rail that runs from front to bottom of steering shaft? Any better ideas?

Thanks!!!
Mike.

[brad42]

Sorry, forgot about ballast weight. All ballast weight must be mounted with steel hardware, and safety wired or cotter keyed. All ballast weight *must* be painted white. (So if a chunk falls off people can avoid hitting it)

Mounting to the floor pan is OK, but must be contained inside the frame rails (ie no mounting to bumpers or nerfs).

[Mac]

At this time we don't need a guard to the back although there has been talk about requiring that in the future.

The sprocket carrier doesn't need to be wired but the brake does. I'll let the more knowlegable folks talk to that.

you don't have to wire the rear bumper but as someone who was meatballed for a bumper that fell off during a race I will say that I wire mine.

The front "V" of the frame that holds your steering wheel is a great place to put weight as long as it is secure and out of the way of feet and pedals.

[warx]

Thanks All!

Checked all steering and its all wired. Still not sure about the brakes. Brake caliper mounts and the pad backoff bolts are wired but not the disc to carrier (6 bolts).

Here's a couple of pics showing what's left to accomplish (apart from race numbers.... got to think of a good number)

sites.google.com/site/mikeskarts/latest-tasks

Thanks,
Mike.

[sean51]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


I have always mounted lead in that triangle at the front... it seems to sit nice and secure in there with the right hardware

[warx]

Thanks Sean.

I just have a single 15mm frame there - not a triangle - plus my size 12 4EEE width shoes kind of sit close to it. If I put them at my heels I can at least mount to the single, but 30mm cross tube.

Also, any significance to number plate color? I see yellow, red and white. I know I need to put an X thru mine.

[brad42]

Black on white or white on black are the accepted colors for us "normal" karters. Yellow signifies an "Expert" who has won races at the national level. Orange is used (in conjucntion with an "X") to signify a rookie in roadracing big tracks lile Infineon or Thunderhill.

As a former scorer I prefer black numbers on white background, and use electrical tape to make the X.

[norcalacr]

Mar 30, 2011 14:21:42 GMT -5 brad42 said:

Black on white or white on black are the accepted colors for us "normal" karters. Yellow signifies an "Expert" who has won races at the national level. Orange is used (in conjucntion with an "X") to signify a rookie in roadracing big tracks lile Infineon or Thunderhill.

Unless you are in the NFRA in which case it only means the color happened to be available.

[ron90]

I have to find my IKF book, I think it is in my garage. WKA I have in my briefcase. They are typically close to the same.

WKA states weight ballast bolts must be minimum 5/16 and wired, cotter keyed, or double nutted. Also any weight over 7 pounds must be retained with two bolts. Not sure if they are enforcing, but I know I have surprised several people with that 7 pound rule.

As for the chain people typically misidentify what the item is. The metal piece over or around the clutch is the guard. The part that transitions back over the gear is the chain cover. Rule states all chain, or gear-driven karts must be equipped with a chain, or gear guard designed to retain a broken chain, or gear. Outboard drive systems will be allowed only if the chain and sprockets are completely enclosed from front, rear, top, and outside. Not sure what IKF contains at this point.

I understand that to mean if you have an inboard (to the seat) clutch then you just need a guard at the clutch, and nothing toward the back over the sprocket. If however you have an outboard (to the outside of the kart) clutch, then you need a complete cover to the rear of the kart.

[warx]

Thanks for the clarification!

I decided that I will mount my 10lb weight behind the tank and put a single 5lb weight in front between my heels on the single frame member. I also decided to move my seat forward about an inch but as these things go I managed to shear off the tube/eye for the right front seat mount. It was only welded on one side which I thought was interesting - I suppose the weight rests on the frame. Still it did not take much torque trying to undo the 8mm bolt through it to break it.

My seat in its new position is less angled and I am concerned. Its back is about 25 deg instead of originally 30. I hate to drill another set of holes though. I'll take my drills and stuff to the track and see.

Mike.