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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 1, 2009 10:48:17 GMT -5
OK, now that I am officially racing F200 (still haven't ever driven one!), I will need tires. What do you recommend? It's my understanding that the 55s are harder, and would be better for the hot months? How do they compare with YHCs on the durometer?
Thanks
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Post by speedrome on Jun 1, 2009 12:10:14 GMT -5
Paul... we have 44s and 55s.. $125 a set for 4.5/7.1s
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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 1, 2009 12:56:48 GMT -5
That's a good deal. I have rims for both 6 and 7.1 inch rears, so I wonder if I would actually notice the difference...
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Post by speedrome on Jun 1, 2009 15:50:34 GMT -5
You will notice the difference.. or should.. Depending on the chassis, set up and experimenting will determine the best combo. What type of chassis do you use? Is the chassis "free" or do you have trouble with a "push" constantly?
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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 1, 2009 16:24:46 GMT -5
I have an older CRG shifter chassis, but it is 32/30mm, so it is softer than most. I have no issue with push. In fact, I like a slight bit on entry, so I can motor through the turns. I run with least castor, minimum width, and I still hardly push, except on cold tires...
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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 2, 2009 19:45:23 GMT -5
None of you F200 gurus have any input? 44s or 55s? 6" or 7.1"?
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Post by brad42 on Jun 2, 2009 20:43:20 GMT -5
Dunno if you want info from such a slow guy, but here goes.
44 vs 55 is primarily weather related, 44 will outperform 55 if it is less than 90 degrees, 55 will outperform 44 over 95 degrees, inbetween it is a crap shoot with factors thrown in such as chassis and driving style.
6.0 vs 7.1 depends on your specific chassis, and whether it tends to run free or not. If your chassis is naturally free, 7.1 is the ticket. If your chassis is naturally tight, 6.0 might help you rotate the kart.
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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 2, 2009 21:02:30 GMT -5
Okay, thanks. Regardless of your speed, you are a smart and knowledgeable person, and you sure know more than I do about the Burris tires and F200... I think I stick with the 6"/55s for the summer.
Does anyone know how the 44s and 55s compare to YHCs?
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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 2, 2009 21:07:21 GMT -5
Actually, it sounds like I might need a set of 44s for practice and qualifying, and 55s for later in the day...
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Post by brad42 on Jun 2, 2009 21:31:16 GMT -5
The rules say whatever tires you qualify on, you spend the rest of the race day on (that's why the little dab of paint at the scales in qualifying).
That is a cost containment rule, otherwise you would have to mount up a set of sticker tires each outing (3 sets of tires per race would kill the sport).
My kart is naturally tight enough that I could get away with 55s all year except maybe the races in Feb and November.
Oh, and the YHC on the durometer is pretty close to the B44A. The 55s are a tad harder. I have heard the YHC is only good for 1 or two heat cycles. I have not experienced that with the Burris tires at all, I get at least 3 race days out of a set before declaring them practice tires.
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Post by paulskirocks on Jun 2, 2009 21:36:16 GMT -5
Oh yea! I forgot about that one tire rule, probably because I have like 8 hours on one set of tires... I guess 55's for now...
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Post by speedrome on Jun 5, 2009 12:46:24 GMT -5
I have an older CRG shifter chassis, but it is 32/30mm, so it is softer than most. I have no issue with push. In fact, I like a slight bit on entry, so I can motor through the turns. I run with least castor, minimum width, and I still hardly push, except on cold tires... Is it possible to get this board to send you an email when you get a response??  Well, i would say that having that push on entry is slowing you down.. It may make you feel comfortable coming into the corner but its not doing you any favors by increasing your lap time. I would recommend staying with the 6.0 tires in the rear for now. The 44s and 55s are close but ultimately testing both will be the only way to know for sure. |
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