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Post by ron90 on Jul 9, 2013 17:26:16 GMT -5
Anyone know where I can locate and buy a Valve Spring tester. I know of several but they are for vehicles and the poundage limits are a lot higher than the kart levels.
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Post by RichH on Jul 9, 2013 21:23:08 GMT -5
Ron, if this is for your sons clone motor. Don't bother. The good trick springs are only $8.00 a set. I used to change mine every two to three races. The tech tool is over a hundred dollars.
Did all the valve train hardware go back together in the proper order?
Valve stem seal on the intake. Valve lash cap on the exhaust only.
I have a couple of brand new sets you can have. 10.8 lbs Trick ARC
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Post by ron90 on Jul 10, 2013 2:42:08 GMT -5
I am still investigating how it went back together. I don't think it was right. I would really like to test the springs in them to see if that is the cause of the 1.5 second loss per lap. I have numerous springs on order as I am going to plan on changing them constantly if that is the problem. It is simply amazing that we went from front runner with quickest time, to slowest on the track. The only change was tech at the prior race.
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Post by Brad Wunder on Jul 10, 2013 11:06:50 GMT -5
Ron, pop open the side cover and make sure the timing marks on the crank/cam are alligned properly. Years ago Scott and I replaced the rod bolts on my F200 and we managed to reinsert the cam one tooth off. When I ran it at Davis (coincidentally) later that day it would run fine (more or less) but had no guts whatsoever. Popped the cover off, noticed we were one tooth off, fixed that, and it ran like a champ again. I think that would explain what you are running into.
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Post by ron90 on Jul 10, 2013 13:48:09 GMT -5
When I ran it at Davis (coincidentally) later that day it would run fine (more or less) but had no guts whatsoever. Did it seem like you needed to give it more gear (teeth) to even have a bottom end? His last race it was crisp with great bottom end, and I could gear for more top end. This time it was like he could not get out of the hole, so i started throwing more teeth at it without success because then we lost top end. How can it jump teeth? I have never heard of that until now. |
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Post by Simon on Jul 10, 2013 13:50:39 GMT -5
What was dismantled when they tech'd it last time ? Was the head off ? Is the spark plug only screwed in finger tight ?  |
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Post by Brad Wunder on Jul 10, 2013 14:07:25 GMT -5
Did it seem like you needed to give it more gear (teeth) to even have a bottom end? His last race it was crisp with great bottom end, and I could gear for more top end. This time it was like he could not get out of the hole, so i started throwing more teeth at it without success because then we lost top end. How can it jump teeth? I have never heard of that until now. What you are describing is exactly what I felt with My F200. I'm not saying the teeth jumped. Not knowing how far they tore it down they may have removed the cam gear to look at something and it wasn't put back exactly right. One tooth off wouldn't make it not run, but it won't run great. |
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Post by ron90 on Jul 10, 2013 14:52:35 GMT -5
No, we were in the carburetor and head. Carberatur apart for choke and butterfly measuring as well as venturi measuring. Springs out to checking if they are legal.
I am going to pull the engine off to start slow tear down to check things, especially valves (they drop when springs out) to see if damaged.
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Post by ron90 on Jul 10, 2013 14:53:36 GMT -5
What was dismantled when they tech'd it last time ? Was the head off ? Is the spark plug only screwed in finger tight ? Hah! I don't do that. I can't imagine anyone making THAT mistake. |
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Post by Brad Wunder on Jul 10, 2013 15:35:38 GMT -5
No, we were in the carburetor and head. Carberatur apart for choke and butterfly measuring as well as venturi measuring. Springs out to checking if they are legal. I am going to pull the engine off to start slow tear down to check things, especially valves (they drop when springs out) to see if damaged. If that is what they did then disregard what I was saying. |
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Post by ron90 on Jul 10, 2013 17:03:04 GMT -5
If that is what they did then disregard what I was saying. No, I am still going to tear into it as I would like to know the condition now to get it back to race ready, including new full set of gaskeets, cleaned, torqued, and wired bolts etc. |
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Post by ron90 on Jul 17, 2013 21:46:38 GMT -5
Completely forgot that Stockton was this weekend. As a result last night I took everything apart, chasing things like jets, gearing, flywhell slipping etc. Nothing was found wrong.
But THEN I pulled the clutch APART and there was metal crap everywear. Drum is shot, and shoes were apparently not gripping smoothly causing excessive bogging of engine and not allowing to get up to speed on the straights.
Now he has many new parts, and hopefully can adapt to Stockton's track.
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Post by Brad Wunder on Jul 18, 2013 18:58:32 GMT -5
Your son is a heck of a driver to get the results he does considering the crew chief he has....almost as bad as the CC of the 9. Notice I said ALMOST! ;D
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Post by ron90 on Jul 19, 2013 11:31:35 GMT -5
Your son is a heck of a driver to get the results he does considering the crew chief he has....almost as bad as the CC of the 9. Notice I said ALMOST! ;D It was part failure, not crew chief failure. Clutch was new to that race. He had three races and several practices on the prior clutch. The wierd part about the clutch issue is it went away at qualifying. I was checking and chasing many other things knowing the clutch was new. I even enlisted the help of some WF racers that happened to be at the track that day for input. I said it appeared that the clutch was binding. After checking many things, and then checking the chain binding a sprocket was changed and the spindle realigned, even though it was really, really close, the binding was gone. In hindsight the clutch cooled off and the binding went away. But when he went back on track the clutch quickly over heated again causing sporadic engagement/disengagement. It would not simply engage and stay engaged due to the overheating of the drum. I am going to strip much of the good parts off the clutch as spare parts (clips driver etc), and dump the shoes and drum as they are scored extensively, and the drum was burned so bad there were metal shavings and blue (overheating) portions on it. Now I know that if the issue arrives, pull off the clutch and have another one ready to slap back on. |
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